Kedengarannya sederhana tapi disini saya akan meng-share sdikit ilmu yang saya dapat. Program yang saya buat ini sangat sederhana karena tidak menggunakan perintah counter maupun timer.
Program yang saya gunakan adalah FXTRN ( simulasi plc berbasis Mitsubishi) :
Syarat yang diperlukan :
1. Input tombol (X) , jika ditekan pertama maka lampu akan nyala , dan ditekan kedua maka lampu akan padam
2. Output Tombol (Y) yang akan berupa lampu
berikut ladder diagramnya : Continue reading “Menyalakan dan Mematikan LED menggunakan 1 tombol di PLC Mitsubishi”
Adequate lighting is very important to keeping a Dionaea muscipula healthy. During their active growing season, Venus Fly Traps should receive a minimum of 12 hours of light (also known as a 12 hour photoperiod) with a minimum of 4 hours of direct sunlight, if you’re growing your Venus Flytraps outside. In general, the more direct light the plant receives the healthier the plant will be.
The best place to grow Venus Fly Traps is outside year round. If you do this, choose an open area to put your plants in and you won’t have to worry about making sure that the plant gets adequate light. They will get all the light that they need. Also, they will catch their own food if they are outside. If you really want to keep your little friend inside, then be sure to place it in a south, east or west facing windowsill that gets at least 4 hours of direct sunlight a day. Another alternative is to use artificial lighting. Venus Fly Traps can be very successfully grown in terrariums with artificial lighting. You can find many different kinds of expensive “plant” lights at your local nursery or hardware store, but many growers find success with regular fluorescent lights. If you use fluorescent lights, to ensure that the plant gets enough light, keep it within 8 inches of the light. The closer to the light the plant is the better.
Below is a picture of a setup of typical Venus Fly Traps in a terrarium. Notice the fluorescent lights just above the plants. In the photo, the plants are approximately 2 inches from the light.
If you just bought a Venus Fly Trap from the hardware store or other retailer where the plant was receiving very low intensity light and wasn’t in direct sunlight at all, then you might want to slowly introduce the plant to direct sunlight or its leaves will probably burn. Start off by giving it an hour or so of direct sunlight for a few days, then increase the exposure to sunlight to a couple hours for a few days and continue to increase the Venus Fly Trap’s exposure to sunlight until you can just leave it out in the sun all day. Alternatively, you could just put the plant in direct sunlight right out of the store. All of its leaves will probably burn and turn yellow or brown and then eventually black, but it won’t be long before it starts sending out new leaves and these will be acclimated to the sun just fine. However, there is a small risk of killing the plant if you do just throw it out in the sun. Continue reading “The Important of light for Venus Flytraps!!”
Most inexperienced Venus Fly Trap growers make the assumption that Dionaea muscipula are tropical plants and that they should be kept in warm growing conditions year round. However, the truth is that Venus Fly Traps are very hardy perennial plants. This means that they grow and bloom over the spring and summer and then die back every winter, growing back in the spring from their energy reserves saved up in the rhizome or root-stock. They can withstand frost and light freezes. Freezes that last an extended period of time can kill Venus Fly Traps however.
In order for Venus Flytraps to survive long term, they must have a dormancy period every year that lasts three to five months. Without a dormancy, Venus Fly Traps will weaken and die over a period of time. During dormancy, Venus Flytraps can survive without any light, but this isn’t optimal. And it seems that photoperiod, over temperature, is the more driving force for triggering dormancy in Venus Fly Traps. Continue reading “Venus Flytrap Dormancy !!”
Repotting a Venus fly trap is actually quite an easy process. The basic procedure is to remove the plant from its current container, remove the soil from its roots and pot it in its new container. Below you will find a detailed step-by-step procedure of how to accomplish this task while causing your Venus fly trap the lease amount of stress so that it can quickly recover and resume growing. Begin by finding a good work area where you can make a mess. An outside picnic table or work bench is perfect.
One term that you’ll need to know before we start is rhizome. The rhizome of your plant is the white bulb-like part that’s just below the soil, but above the black roots. It’s the area that all of the leaves on your Venus fly trap originate from and where the plant stores energy.With that term defined, let’s get started!
Step 1) Preparing the new pot
Once you’ve prepared your desired soil mix as described above and it’s moistened all the way through, simply fill the chosen pot with the soil mix and gently compress it. Using a stick, screwdriver, your finger or some other tool, make a fairly deep hole for the roots and rhizome of the plant to go into. Make the hole deep enough to accommodate the roots with minimal winding. Be sure to make the top a bit wider than the bottom so that you have plenty of room for the rhizome.
Choosing the right pot for your Venus fly trap is an important process. It can mean the difference between a small plant that struggles most of its life and a large, robust, healthy plant that flowers to produce a lot of seed and divides regularly. While Venus fly traps can get by in a wide variety of pot sizes and shapes, they prefer to have a pot with good vertical depth so that their roots have room to grow. Venus fly traps can be grown in anything from short 2 inch pots all the way up to pots as big as they come. I find that pots between 4 inches and 5 inches in depth are a good comprimise for space while still providing enough depth for the roots of the Venus fly trap. But in general, the deeper the pot, the better it will be for your pet Venus fly trap.
Another important characteristic of a good Venus fly trap pot, especially in climates with more extreme temperatures, is good insulation. An insulated pot will provide a stable temperature for the roots and help prevent the pot from heating up the soil when sunlight directly hits the sides of the pot. It will also provide a bit of protection from the soil freezing when the temperatures dip just below freezing.
Plastic pots are easy to find, cheap and will work well for Dionaea. Continue reading “Choosing a Pot for your Venus Flytrap!!”
Choose an adequately large container that will allow you to mix the peat and perlite without spilling it. A five gallon bucket works well.
First, pour in the peat moss:
Continue reading “How to Mixing the Soil of Venus flytrap??”
It is very important to use nutrient POOR soil to grow Venus Flytraps. Regular potting soil will burn the roots and kill the plant very quickly. Fertilizing Venus Fly Traps is also not recommended. The fertilizer will burn the roots and likely kill the plant. Some experts use extremely diluted fertilizer and apply it only to the leaves of the plant, but this is risky for a beginner and not recommended.
Dionaea aren’t very picky about the medium you use. Perhaps the easiest medium to use is simply pure peat moss. This dead, milled version of peat moss is typically sold in large bales at virtually any retailer that carries potting soil. It seems that the most widely accepted medium to use is a 1:1 mix (in terms of volume) of peat and perlite. When choosing a brand of peat moss, any type will do as long as it isn’t enriched. Be sure to avoid brands like Miracle-Gro and Scott’s because they contain fertilizer that will burn the roots of your plant and eventually kill it.
Continue reading “Soil for Venus Flytraps !!”